Short note about Ice Runners

 It may be self explanatory to some ice boaters how to mount the runners, but to those who are new at it, here are a few hints.Simply  install the runners instead of the standard wheels.The REAR runners have to be THREADED on like you would install a machine nut. This gives it the least amount of side play and wobble on the spindle. The runners have to freely pivot …… DO NOT  tighten the nuts on the outside.As the iceboat hikes on one side the FORWARD part of the runner has to pivot down.Make it a habit that the Hex part of the hollow bolt going through the runner is at the OPEN SIDE OF THE AXLE (outside in rear)Sharpen Ice  Runners with knife sharpener or fine sandpaper on a flat surface.Since the Ice Runners are used in mostly wet environment it is advisable to give it a PROTECTIVE clear coat. Of course you can also paint the ice runners to match your boatRemove the hub bolts before painting

That’s all……..Have fun and stay warm.

 


Model Land Yachts Design Hints

                            By Robert Weber Once you are into land sailing it becomes more and more a mystery why this clean and fast sport with practically no maintenance hasn’t caught on more than just a trickle here and there. Did you know the BLM ( bureau of land management) made a 10 minute video, promoting our sport to be environmentally sound. Hear -Hear !!!!!No messy expensive fuel or batteries, no noise, no pollution, just simple exciting fun. Weight distribution, center of effort, suspension and selection of wheels play a major role in the way a land yacht is handling. You want to make sure the front end allows you to control the yacht in adverse conditions. You don’t want to have “rudder” problems, even the Bismarck was sunk because of that. The nice part is we walk on the substance we sail on. Most model and full size  land yachts brake down into 3 major components: 1. Mast/sail 2.body/front end 3. Rear axle (plank)/wheels. On some of the models 60lbs line is used for stays, which have enough ”give”  to act as vibration dampeners. Three aircraft type wheels with 2 ball bearings installed are used in various sizes. Foam wheels are very light and offer great traction on just about all kinds of surfaces. Sail materials used vary depending on sail area, size and type of rigging.  Receiver batteries are mounted just before or behind the plank, which is normally the location where the pilot sits in a full size yacht.The most inexpensive 2CH ground frequency Radio will do for the boom and steering control, on larger models an arm type sail servo is required.Great attention is paid to keep all parts of the model non corrosive, since a lot of people have to run their models on beaches. Since the main sheet is hardly ever moved you can run you model all day on a full charge of batteries. In the heat of the battle at speeds up to 30 mph collisions are often unavoidable, therefore a rugged construction is a plus and untangling of models is all it usually takes. For the same reason you want to have the controls protected.As you run a land yacht with a stayed mast, the down force on to the mast is considerable. Having a soft of a flex in the plank will cause the yacht to bottom out and slow it down. To stiff of a plank will allow the surface vibrations to transfer on to the rig, causing loss of lift and traction do to bouncing. Boom control and sail shape are accomplished by one control function. Built-up body and wing mast are used in most models, yet the Stiletto features Body, Tail cone, inverted wing profile plank and double tapered wing mast all made out of molded fiberglass.Weight of the models ready to run vary from 1lbs to 3 1/2lbs. Depending on the size of the model.All  kits are complete to the smallest detail less glue and paint. The Stiletto has a choice for either standard or low wind sail option. Model land yachts perform best at wind velocities of right around 8-10mph.For further info. Please contact Robert Weber at (909)585-2372 or email robertsmly@charter.net . Please visit my website

Water Sailing verses  Hard Surface Sailing                                                                                                       

  By Robert Weber Water sailing is a science by itself. In the sixties I was sailing the Austrian and German lakes and competing in the “Kieler Woche” on the Baltic Sea. The hot sport boat at this time was the newly established Olympic class  the “Flying Dutchman”.Do to this experience my first model land yachts were built with water sailboat rigging in mind.  Not until I tried a used front sail of a model 12 meter  boat in connection with a wing mast, did I get an eyebrow raising performance out of it.Experimenting with all kinds of more or less sadly performing body and rear axle designs and wheels, I came to the conclusion that nothing but a fully purpose built Model Land Yacht “car” and rigging will do. Thus the STILETTO was created, followed in later years by the STEALTH line.I realized by then ,that a land yacht was not a sailboat on wheels and do to the much higher wind and surface speeds a science of compromises. The rigging does not only have the capability for high speed but also has to have the power to get you there as quickly as possible.Another compromise is weight…. Less weight better acceleration, less traction, better chance of lifting a wheel (hiking). The width and weight of the land yacht is directly comparable to the length and weight of a keel of a sail boat.The “Iron Duck” (see NALSA. Org) brought the land sailing speed  record back to the USA in 1999 (116.7mph) uses a solid symmetrical wing without flaps for power.It takes about 10 minutes in a 30+ mph wind to reach this speed  which wouldn’t do anything for winning regattas.A wing/sail combination  has so far been the best design for racing and  boat speeds of 3-4 times the actual wind speed are not unusual. The sail in this set up becomes a giant “flap” and it diminishes the importance of a “shape-cut” sail.Perpetual Motion!?!……. It’s very tempting to say so.A rotating wing mast allows you to change the thickness of the airfoil for more or less lift (Power) translating into excellent acceleration and top speed. High performance Land Yachts can tack 15 Degrees up-wind and race 165 Degrees off the wind with the boom close hauled. Remember a Land Yacht once in motion will move faster than the actual wind velocity and the apparent wind will therefore always be in an angle from the front.Therefore limited boom travel and no spinaker.The chain reaction, which the Land-Yacht Pilots call “hooking up” can accelerate  a land yacht so quickly it actually causes a noticeable “G” force.The top speed of the Yacht is ultimately limited by the surface and wind drag of the whole Yacht and the angle of attack of the apparent wind.Since a land yacht is more comparable to a glider on wheels, it becomes obvious that there should not be an air gap between boom and body and I often wondered if it would be an advantage on water boats as well. I guess birds knew this all along.In a land yacht things happen very quickly , you are going a mile a minute or faster leaving you just enough time to stall (de-power) the rig on the down wind marker to be able to round it. Therefore the whole “boat” has to be aerodynamically clean and the controls have to be simple. Please read the page “Model Land Yacht design hints”.     

 


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